How artificial grass is installed so it stays flat, drains and lasts

Clearing the old lawn

The existing turf and roots are dug out, not simply covered. Grass and weeds left in place rot down, leaving soft spots and a lumpy finish, and some will try to push through. We excavate to a consistent depth across the whole area so the new base is even.

Edging

The perimeter needs a firm edge to fix the grass to and to stop the base spreading. Depending on the garden, that can be timber, a composite edge, or an existing wall or path. Without a solid edge, the edges lift and curl over time, which is often the first thing that makes an artificial lawn look cheap.

Building a free-draining base

A compacted layer of crushed stone forms the structural base, followed by a finer layer that is screeded smooth and compacted again. This gives a firm, level surface that lets rain drain straight down through the backing of the grass.

Many North East gardens sit on heavy clay that holds water. On that kind of ground the base depth and drainage matter even more, because a base that holds water will leave the lawn soggy and can let it sink. Where drainage is poor, we look at options before the turf goes down rather than after.

Weed membrane

A permeable weed membrane goes over the base. It stops weeds growing up through the grass while still letting water pass. It is a small cost that saves a lot of pulling later.

Laying and joining the rolls

Turf comes in rolls of fixed width, so most lawns need at least one join. All pieces must be laid with the pile running the same direction, or the colour looks different from each side. Joins are made with jointing tape and adhesive so they sit flat and disappear into the pile.

The grass is then trimmed tight to the edges and fixed down around the perimeter.

Infill and brushing

Depending on the product, a kiln-dried sand infill is brushed into the pile to help it stand upright and weigh the turf down. The whole lawn is then brushed against the grain to lift the fibres and hide joins.

Shortcuts to watch for in a quote

Any of these can make the first price look attractive, but they are the usual reasons an artificial lawn has to be relaid.

• Laying over existing grass or soil with no stone base
• No firm edging around the perimeter
• Sand-only base with no compacted stone
• Rolls laid with pile running in different directions

Living with it once it is down

An artificial lawn is low-maintenance rather than no-maintenance. Leaves and debris should be blown or brushed off before they break down on the surface, because rotting organic matter is what feeds moss and weeds at the edges. A stiff brush against the pile every so often keeps the fibres upright, particularly in paths people walk along every day.

Pet owners should rinse areas used by dogs regularly; a free-draining base is what stops smells lingering, which is another reason the stone layer matters so much. Barbecues, fire pits and reflected sunlight from some windows can melt fibres, so keep heat sources off the grass itself.